Oct 13 Day 9 Anghiari and Arezzo

First visit to hill towns in Tuscany and traveled to Anghiari and Arezzo by bus, returning with Donna and Frederico (university professors and friends of Betty and John) in their car.

The landscape between towns was just as pictured in all of the books showing pastoral Tuscany - gorgeous. They actually grow a North Carolina plant here, tobacco, and I have seen them harvesting and transporting it with their large machines and slow trucks.  Unfortunately, the Italians do like to smoke, but at least they have restrictions and it is done outside mostly.  It is allowed in the bars, which still seems odd to me.

Anghiari is a stunning 14th century medieval town, surrounded by formidable stone walls, I particularly enjoyed wandering around the tiny walkways of the town and seeing truly beautiful and heavy wooden doors, lovely archways, and interesting stonework. It felt like a movie set, it was so different from my experiences.

I visited a couple of the museos and chiesas and it all puts into such stark contrast the idea of what Americans consider "old" compared to this medieval town.  Of course I kept hoping to see Michael Palin and John Cleese come trotting along, accompanied by coconuts, but no such luck. The town is set on top of such a steep hill that is hard to navigate, that simply living there would keep you in good shape. I got caught inside the walled town, with no apparent escape, so I took the tiny stairs inside a tower and landed on some grass.

The Busatti factory is also here, with their gorgeous quality handcrafted table linens, baby cottons, and bedroom wools - http://www.busatti.com/gallery/Tavola.html  - and that was a fun little shopping excursion.

After a cappuccino and biscotte, I boarded the bus for Arrezo, a former Etruscan city-state, and also another important town in the Middle Ages, set also on top of a tall hill with walled borders and beautiful buildings.

Arezzo has extraordinary churches, particularly the Cathedral, and I was able to see some additional artwork of Piero della Francesca.  The Piazza Grande is especially lovely, and was where the bicycle meeting scene in Life is Beautiful was filmed. Every side of the piazza is lovely, and I had a leisurely lunch, accompanied by a violinist.  Borne giorno principessa!

I was also able to see the birthplace of Petrarch (1301) and did not realize that his father was a personal friend of Dante.  I want to find a copy of Canzoniere.

The medieval and modern museum was amazing, with some of the most gorgeous art I have ever seen.  However, the people that worked there were not so lovely - watching me like a hawk - but it is understandable.

The Medieval and Modern Museum was amazing, with some of the most gorgeous art I have ever seen.  However, the people that worked there were not so lovely - watching me like a hawk and frowning - but it is understandable.

This is a well in the town with a funny story (referred to in Boccaccio's Decameron) about Tofano, a rich man, who was jealous of his beautiful wife Monna Ghita, so she took a young lover. One night Tofano locked her out of the house so Monna Ghita threw a large stone into the well, causing Tofano to believe that she had fallen in - so he ran out to help her.  Monna Ghita ran into the house and locked him out, and the neighbors all sided with her against Tofano.

What a lovely excursion, followed by a delicious dinner of duck and a bottle of Chianti, with interesting and lively people. I feel so fortunate to be included in Betty and John's lives\friends\town and all that they offer!